Found

Another Scorching, Rocking, Smelly and Beautiful week in my beloved São Paulo. 

I can finally say with some confidence that I'm learning my way around this city. This is a tremendous relief as getting lost here as often as I was, looking like the Gringa I am, really wasn't so safe for obvious reasons. 

As of now I can find my way from my lush neighborhood of Alimação to the bustling streets of Avanida Paulista, to the rooms of my music school, with my eyes closed- I take this root often. 

  

" it just doesn't seem like a day in your life if you don't get lost at least once" 

I've been spending a lot of my life here in SP taking music classes at this rocking place called Souza Lima. I enjoy singing, but until now only in the shower or with the radio twice the volume.However, I enjoy being around musical people - even if I don't speak their language -music or Portuguese- I'm learning! .
And I've adjusted to listening to Stevie Wonder  rock and roll as early as 9am.

I think the music notes are really cute.

While all primary schools in São Paulo have uniforms, universities do not. But my school sure seems to have one, we were all wearing music related shirts - Beatles, Pink Floyd, Rolling Stones...! 

Most of the music I hear here is actually American, which does make me feel at home but doesn't help with my Portuguese !

Avanida Paulista is a very lively place where people are constantly trying to communicate with me. Usually it's to join their cause, beg for money, or ask for directions. Othertimes I have no idea what they want from me, it seems that the strangers of Paulista are just being friendly- which is a bit out of place for such a big city. Also I don't know what it is about me that inspires so many daily inquires about  directions, perhaps I finally look like I know where I'm going ?

Brazilian Birthday and BBQ

Today I watched a movie, bought groceries, went to church, got lost near the Favela, (slums) and attended a Brazilian BBQ and Birthday. 

The End of The Road, or The World? 

WHEW. I'm exhausted. 

The most exciting part of course was the BBQ, where I ate my weight in beans and rice and got a lot of questions about my vegetarianism -
While vegetarianism isn't unheard of here in Brazil, it's certainly not common and often people express concerns for my health and emotional well being. I can assure any of you with doubts: I am so, so SO happy, in general, but especially in Brazil, and not at risk of anything because of my diet. -

Forever connected <3

Despite the meat, these BBQ's are one of my favorite parts of Brazilian culture. Following the matriarch, it's typical on Sundays and holidays for nuclear families to travel to grandmas house to consume a *ginormous* meal. Typical foods include chicken, steak, pork, and the aforementioned beans. But the part I really enjoy is the LOUD conversation, music, laughter and sleeping that follows. Every Brazilian family I've met here seems so insistent upon maintaining a close relationship with their cousins, and it's really more than nice, it feels like love.

While in the U.S. it's not uncommon for weeks or months to pass without sending a, "life-signal" to your more distant relatives, here that phenomenon doesn't seem to exist. Family's manage stay connected across city, state, and country boarders daily without hesitation. Really utilizing modern technology no one's ever forgotten - it's really sweet. 

If I had the Life expectancy of a mayfly, I would've lived a really great life today... Here it is in chronological order : 

Before Church we stopped at the Grocery store, which is mostly the same here. The only thing I noticed is  that a person checks your recite to ensure you're not stealing anything on the way out.

I've been going to church at an "american"school, but of course you can tell it's not truly american - there's no football field! Only soccer.

There was traffic so we took a different course home, I wouldn't take a picture of the favela except as we speed away in the car, it's not such a safe place. 

This is a Feira, or a market to buy fresh produce. They pop up all over the city on various days of the week and are really cute and the fruits are really good. 

The people of São Paulo have very mixed opinions about the abundance of graffiti in their city. One the one hand some of it is gang signs. On the other hand, a lot of it really brightens up the concrete jungle... this elephant I really enjoyed on our way to:  

 The aforementioned São Benardo'en  BBQ!! 

While I was there these Brazilian Boys tried to teach me a lot of slang or " Gíria"

I can now say "Mano, eai suave, de boa é nois" 

I don't know what it means...

But I can say it !!  

Convincing me to try weird grapes 

I wish I could sit up there like this cat and just watch and listen to this beautiful neighborhood. 

And Because all good things must come to an end... my candid:

 "Tchau!"   

HOT

In case you aren't tracking or experiencing the weather here in São Paulo:

The sun will fry your flesh,  

Bathe you in your sweat,

Bring you to your knees,

Entirely out of breath. 

It's hot, hot, and did I mention HOT!

I'm hiding behind my fan and a tall glass of water while I wait to sign for my new credit card, but I have even less hope that it will arrive on time considering the circumstances. 

Brazilians aren't punctual. I've learned this several times over, but I'm starting to understand why - when the weather is so intense your clothes stick to your skin, and feet to the floor, so I forgive my friends when they say they'll be there at 16:00 and they mean 17:00...

Yesterday after music school,  I met a friend from my exchange year in Finland (later than we agreed of course :-) ). It was so much fun to walk down the central street of Paulista and chat without anyone able to eaves drop, and it was also funny because people assumed she wasn't Brazilian and talked about us freely.Who ever said Finnish wouldn't be useful!

Now back to my Portuguese lessons... I'll be starting with a formal teacher next week to speed up the process !  

The First, Second world Problems

I often forget that Brazil isn't considered to be a member of the "first world."

Now that's not to say that I think it is, I'm well aware of the problems in Brazil regarding the extreme economic imbalance, disorganized justic system, and a generally lower standard of living... 

And I can't feel safe walking down the streets alone at night, I compulsively check to make sure I have my replacement-wallet, and I'm consistently charged twice as much simply because I'm a "Gringa-" a foreigner.

But despite all this, I still am in many respects reside in the first world: my iPhone tells me where the nearest subway station is, and my prescription contacts ensure I can read the street signs to get there.

There's the side of Brazil I really love, and the side of Brazil I hope to never spend too much time in.

I colored my hair last weekend to look more Brazilian. I  was told the price would be maximum  180 reals,  but at the end of it they told me 255 taking advantage of my limited Portuguese skills.

I was crushed. I was warned this would happen but I didn't want to believe it. How could the Brazilian people so kind, warm, and welcoming, they take advantage of me?

After a feeble attempt at protesting, I paid 225 reals..... And at the end of the day they did a great job and I love my new look: it's beautiful and the RED suits my loud personality....

 Much like Brazil, despite the problems, it's generally really great.

The City Who Never Sleeps

I know New York is the city who never sleeps, so if that nickname's already reserved São Paulo is the city that doesn't even rest her eyes for a little while.

I haven't been sleeping properly the past couple nights, and I think it's because I'm so pumped up on whatever drives this city twenty-four hours a day seven days a week (probably a combination of Brigederios, strange fruits, and various high sugar beverages)

Today, or yesterday since I suppose it's after midnight, I got pretty lost trying to get home from the subway. I generally know how to get home from various locations around the city, but because most streets aren't flat or straight, one wrong turn means I'm somewhere else entirely. I asked about 12 different people for directions to find the "parque de aclimaçāo" before finally finding my way home.

This random sample of benevolent Brazilians has further confirmed my theory that the people of this fine city can be divided into three flexible groups :

• The first is those who speak a reasonable amount of English: They talk slowly and apologize a lot. You can spot them from a mile away because they use their hands enough to skip the elliptical at the gym.

• The second is those who speak english as well as most American adults: You won't miss them because the first thing they will say to you is reminiscent of, " I apologize for my English."  without the slightest hint of an accent.  Thankfully of course,  this is the vast majority of Brazilians I've met.

• The third is those who speak literally no English, which is certainly a minority but when I find them I get so excited because I have to try to speak Portuguese, which is when I learn the most. 

A couple days ago I found myself hanging out with a resident of the third group,  a little girl no more than six years young. I was forced to get creative, and  We played about 20 games of tick-tack-toe . As we moved along with her knocking it out of the park,  I learned how to tell her " Você Ganha !" or " You Win,"

But  I really I needed to learn how to say " Eu ganho," because I really did win. I live in the most beautiful city  filled with kind people happy to help me navigate it's impractical, yet exciting layout.

And I look forward to getting a little lost again in this awake and alive city.

 

One of the exciting things I discovered trying to find my way home - an instrument on the run ! 

Bom Dia !

My New Bedroom View! 

Oi Amigos ! 

It's raining that sort of broken-faucet,  off-and-on dripping, with the sun peaking through. Which I'm only telling you because I lost my wallet, and it pleasantly reflects part of my mood. 

I've spent my first weekend in this beautiful city moving in and getting settled. Besides the wallet thing it's going really well and I have no regrets about living here. The people speak kindly and laugh a lot, the streets are filled with cuddly little dogs, and the city noises of faint music and the moan of cars produce the most spectacular dreams for me.

Today is Independence day and I'm interested to see how much in contrasts from the United States' celebrations, I imagine it'll be a bit more modest as it's hard to imagine a country liking to boast more than my own home. Anyway, I'll keep you posted! It's time for me to eat breakfast, cheese bread, and see the day ...

Right now my whole world is studying Portuguese ! 

Redecorating

If you saw my last post you probably noticed I did some redecorating around here. 

Besides altering the entire color scheme, I changed the name of my little corner of the internet to " Gringa-" which is what a handful of people called me while I was visiting São Paulo a couple of months ago.

Why? 
At first I thought "Gringa" was an affectionate nick-name like, "Darling" or "sweetie," but my internet research has led me to conclude that it's mostly a name for a native english speaker who moved to South America.

Which sounded a lot like me. 

But at the time of creating my blog I feared it might be demeaning, because all of my sources have been inconsistent  as to what it means precisely: some have claimed it's a white woman, a foreign one, or one from the United States exclusively. I finally decided to fully embrace the label when one lone site claimed it's a woman who moves to South America to teach. Which is totally me.
(Or will be... in two days !! Ahh!!!) 

The truth is, I'm not entirely sure what it means to be a "gringa,"  with all the associations and connotations it may or may not have, but I'm excited to learn. 

 I also believe, " A Gringa on São Paulo" might be a good tag line.

Another label I was handed while I was down there was, " German." Which seemed strange considering my language, complexion, and mostly again the fact that I was speaking English. 
Not to mention the sheer distance from Germany to São Paulo, I'd be surprised to learn there's an abundance of them roaming the streets. 

What I'm getting at is before I've finished packing I'm already searching for what my identity will be down there. A German? A Gringa? Or some other G word? 

I guess we'll just have to wait and see. Brace yourself, I'm coming São Paulo, whatever I am !